The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and more diverse. They preserve land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on